The Garden of Eden

Smythe recorded some 262 species of flowers in 1937 and 29 more were added to the list a few years later. You will find anemones, geraniums, marsh marigolds, Primulas, potentilla, geum, asters, lilium, ranunculus, corydalis, inula, Brahma kamal, campanula, pedicularis, arisaema, morina, impatiens, bistorta, ligularia, anaphalis, saxifragus, sibbaldia, thermopsis, trollius, codonopsis, dactylorhiza, cypripedium, strawberry epilobium and rhododendrons. Many of the flowers found here have medicinal value. The valley remains in bloom for three months while its floral composition keeps changing every few days, by September, the blooms start to fade and, for the next five months, remain dormant over winter when the valley is snowbound.
Apart from the flowers, you are likely to come across many butterflies and, if you are lucky, you may even spot the musk deer, blue sheep (bharal), Himalayan bear, Himalayan mouse hare and the elusive snow leopard.
The bird life in the valley is rich and varied, and you are likely to sight the fire-capped tit, black-throated tit, red-headed bullfinch, fire-fronted serin, striped-throated yuhina, pink browed rosefinch, dark-breasted rosefinch, speckled wood pigeon, Himalayan tree creeper, yellow breasted greenfinch, rufous-gellied niltava, rufous – vented tit, brown dipper and monal pheasant. The valley is exquisite and it seems a shame not be able to spend the night here – depending n the weather, snow bridges may still span the river below, and scrambling up-valley, crossing its numerous feeders, is a delight. If I were to visit the valley again, I would camp, not at Ghangaria, but as close to the valley as permitted, and spend a couple of days savoring its delights. In any case, do try and reach there early – both to catch the morning dew on the blossoms, as well as to make the most of the day.

Getting there:India
Delhi-Rishikesh: Frequent buses from ISBT from 5am -11pm (6 hrs): Shatabdi Express train (6am 5hrs).
Rishikesh –Joshimath: Buses from 5am to 9am. There are no buses after 9am, since vehicles do not ply on these roads after dark (11hrs). Shared taxis (9hrs, 10 people).
Joshimath- Gobindghat: Buses (1 hr drive) and shared taxis from 6.30am to 4.30pm.
There’s a ‘gate system’ which remains closed after 4.30 pm for ALL vehicles. For Gobindghat to Joshimath, the gates open at 7.50 am and close at 5.45pm.
Shikhar Nature camp, Ghangariya
Gobindghat-Ghangariya-Valley Of flowers: - 16 km walk, ponies and porters available. Charges are negotiable

Leave Ghangaria with the stream of pilgrims heading to Hemkund. You need to veer left (north –west) as they climb east to the lake. The trail is well marked, and is a delightful ramble as it climbs gently through a coniferous forest, before dropping down to a bridge, shack and check-post that mark the official beginning of the Valley of Flowers (Bhyundar Valley, 3858m). pay your entry fee (Indians Rs 30, foreigners Rs 150- for 3 days) here and climb up a rocky trail. The forest is now behind you, and the flowers begin to appear.
As the trail levels out and turns right (east), you begin to get a sense of the valley. To the right, just below the trail, a marble slab marks the death of Margaret Legge, a botanist from Edinburgh who fell to her death her in 1939: “I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills from whence cometh my strength.”

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