The paithani saree - a poem in silk

                                                                                         

The Paithani saree is known the world over for its uniqueness. It is one of the most beautiful sarees in the world. Beautifully crafted, with an exquisite zari border, this saree is truly a poem in silk. The Paithani saree is chosen by brides to wear on their special day, especially in Gujarati and Maharashtrian families.

The Paithani sarees are mostly woven in Paithan in Maharashtra. Yeola, Pune, Nasik and Malegaon in Maharashtra are the other centres where weaving of Paithani sarees is undertaken. These sarees were initially woven specially for queens and other members of the royal family by weavers in the palaces. However, with the passage of time, these sarees are now easily available both in India and internationally.

In an original Paithani saree, pure silk is used in the weaving of the body and pure gold and silver zari is used in the pallu and the border. The zari used in the preparation of the saree is specially procured from Surat in Gujarat. The process of preparation of a Paithani saree can take a time period ranging from a month to years. It is because of these reasons that this saree is rather expensive. To bring down the price of these sarees, weavers are using silver instead of gold and silk in place of silver.

Traditionally, Paithanis used to have a plain body with a heavy golden border and a large pallu. However, with the passage of time, various motifs began to be used in these sarees.

Though modern-day weavers are trying to develop newer and innovative motifs, usually traditional motifs are used in Paithani sarees. The most commonly used motifs in the body of these sarees are ‘kamal’ (lotus flower), ‘hans’ (swan), ‘asharfi’ (coin), ‘asawalli’ (flowering vine), ‘Bangadi mor’ (peacock in bangle), ‘rui phool’ (cotton flower), circles, stars and clusters of leaves. In the pallu of such sarees, certain motifs are very commonly found. Some of them are ‘Asawali’, ‘Panja’ (a flower in a geometrical shape), ‘Muthada’ (a geometrical shape), and ‘mor’ (peacock).

Paithani sarees are woven in a number of colors. These colors can be pure or be created using a blend of different colored yarns. The colors that are typically used in these sarees are ‘kaali chandrakala’ (black), ‘uddani’ (lighter black), ‘pophali’ (yellow), ‘neeligungi’ (blue), ‘pasila’ (a combination of green, red and pink), ‘pheroze’ (a blend of green, white and red), ‘samprus’ (a mixture of green and red) and ‘kusumbi’ (a purple and red combination).

Artisans in Paithan have been practicing the art of weaving the Paithani saree for centuries, and this tradition has been passed on from one generation to another. MSSIDC i.e. Maharashtra Small Scale Industrial Development Corporation Limited was established in the year 1962.

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