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By Pete Buckley [ 04/06/2009 ] Publishing Free Articles Zone articles is subject to our Publisher's Terms Of Service |
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Set in one of the most spectacular locations in Europe, beneath the towering North Wall of the Eiger, Grindelwald is a veritable paradise for the walker. Trails lead off through pine scented valleys leading the way to airy summits and high mountain tarns surrounded by the rugged beauty of the Jungfrau Region of the Swiss Alps.
The walking and hiking opportunities to be had here seem almost limitless but I'll detail 3 of my favorite routes, each of which are suitable for the average walker new to the Alps being neither excessively long or containing any difficult sections.
The Grindelwald Valley or Lutschental, being Swiss, is served by the best public transport system in the World with most visitors arriving from Interlaken by the small red and white trains of the Berner Oberland Bahn. All the main walking routes of the valley can also easily be reached by train, bus or cable car so there's no need for a car. For those who insist on polluting the place though, you can drive up the valley if you need to - it's not traffic free like Zermatt and Saas Fee.
I'll start with a route that's suitable to start off a walking trip - one to do with the kids or on the afternoon you arrive. Take the cable car up to Mannlichen to the West of Grindelwald and first of all follow the wide track up to the summit known as Mannlichen Gipfel at 2343m or 7687 feet. The summit is only about 100m above the cable car station and the view it gives is well worth the small effort involved. The far side drops steeply away though so care is needed if children are with you - the path to it is wide and easy. Now retrace your steps back past the cable car and follow the wide trail signposted to Kleine Scheidegg towards a view that you will have seen on countless postcards and calendars in Grindelwald's shops.
The 3 summits of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau rise in a line ahead and it is towards these snowy peaks that the path winds its leisurely way. There is absolutely no difficulty in either the walking or route finding as the path leads in a gentle and slightly downhill manner past the steep grassy Lauberhorn - famous for the downhill ski race - and around a wide circle in the hills always with wonderful views to finish at the resort of Kleine Scheidegg. The village is best known as the base for attempts on the Eiger North Face and featured in Clint Eastwood's movie, The Eiger Sanction. Kleine Scheidegg is usually busy but it is worth a visit and it is from here that you can catch the train - part of the Jungfrau Railway - back down to Grindelwald. This walk is only 5km or 3 miles and involves very little ascent - around 100m - it is entirely downhill if Mannlichen Gipfel is not ascended.
Our second walk is a classic day hike of the Alps. The Eigertrail or Eiger Trail begins at Alpiglen below Kleine Scheidegg which is reached by mountain railway from Grindelwald via Grund just below in the valley. The route is signposted from the Alpiglen Station which is a request stop on the Jungfrau Railway.
A fabulous path with wide views northward leaves the station to cross alpine meadows before entering a small forest. A little steep section with a handrail leads back up to more open country before you branch off over a small footbridge over a ravine. Now the path climbs more steeply towards the North Face of the Eiger which fills the sky to the South and doubles back towards Kleine Scheidegg and Eigergletscher climbing all the time.
The route crosses increasingly wild looking terrain as it gets higher and provides close up views of the wall above which is almost 6000 feet high. After a slight descent the route passes a number of cairns and traverses beneath the sheer rocks of the Rotstock before suddenly emerging at Eigergletscher where they serve a good meal in the staton restaurant - or walk up the ridge past the old Mitteleggi Hut where there's a seat below the rocks with views across the Lauterbrunnen Valley. A good place to eat a packed lunch!
The Eiger Trail leads through some spectacular scenery with great views throughout but is never difficult. The maximum height is Eigergletscher at 2320m or 7612 feet and the route involves about 700m of ascent over 5km or 3 miles. To return take the train from Eigergletscher or Kleine Scheidegg another 3km and about 300m downhill. This route can also be done in the reverse direction for those with an aversion to walking uphill. This is of course much easier and just as spectacular.
My last route here is the ascent of the Faulhorn - an easy trekking peak north of Grindelwald. Take the cablecar from the village main street to First which is a viewpoint in the range to the North. From First at 2167m - a grassy balcony from which to view the array of rock and ice opposite - a network of trails leads through expanses of alpine meadows where the sound of cowbells is never far away. Follow the wide easy path signposted to Bachsee and Faulhorn and after a surprisingly short ascent you will arrive at Bachsee with its stunning views across the valley to the snows of the high Oberland Peaks.
From Bachsee the path climbs more steeply below the dark crags of the Simelihorn to the high col of Gassenboden - a contrast to the lush meadows below. The Faulhorn is clearly visible from here with the last section of the path leading up to the hut just below the summit. At 2681m or 8796 feet the Faulhorn gives far ranging views - the blue waters of the Brienzersee glisten 7000 feet below to the North while beyond are the Alpine foothills and the distant lowlands. Southwards the whole of the Jungfrau Region is on display with the glaciers and crags rising massively across the Grindelwald valley.
You can descend the same way but a good route is to return to Gassenboden and head to the right down the trail to Bussalp - a rougher but still not difficult path that descends through a wonderful unspoiled and craggy valley which shows a much wilder side of these mountains than the meadows of First. The total distance of this route is 9km or 6 miles with 520m of ascent and 900m of descent if the path to Bussalp is followed. From Bussalp there is a regular bus service - there had to be really - to Grindelwald.
About the author:
Travel writer Pete Buckley is a regular visitor to the mountains of Switzerland and is the author of A Long Walk in the Alps which recounts a journey from the Eiger to the Matterhorn. For photos of Switzerland including the Grindelwald area please visit the Mountain Landscapes gallery.
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