THE TRUTH ABOUT SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS

Aside from the controversy surrounding conflict diamonds, it is the issue of ‘synthetic diamonds’ that is currently preying most on the minds of diamond dealers and retailers. The facts of the matter are relatively simple.

Synthetic diamonds, also known as ‘man-made’, ‘cultured’, or ‘lab-grown’, have been confirmed to exist since the 1950s. Before that, various scientists claimed to have produced diamond out of other forms of carbon, but their results were never verified or replicated.

In December 1954, Howard Tracy Hall, working for General Electric, managed to synthesize diamond using a process called High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT). This effectively reproduced the extreme conditions within the earth’s crust under which diamonds formed naturally millions of years ago. These days, synthetic diamonds are still created using HPHT, as well as an alternative process called Gas Vapour Deposition.

Although synthetic diamonds have existed for over half a century, it is only in recent years that it has been possible to produce gem-quality stones in a manner that is economically viable. These stones should not be confused with moissanite, cubic zirconia, or any other diamond substitutes – they are ‘real’ diamonds in the sense that they have the same chemical, physical and optical properties as their traditional, mined counterparts.

The advent of gem-quality synthetic diamonds has been broadly perceived as a threat within the diamond industry, amidst widespread concern that it will undermine the exclusivity and hence the price of mined diamonds. This fear has been accompanied by a concerted marketing effort designed to portray synthetic diamonds as inferior, or ‘fake’. In fact, there are both advantages and disadvantages to synthetic diamonds.

On a positive note, synthetic diamonds are relatively affordable, generally about 15% less expensive than a mined white diamond of similar quality. Also, synthetic diamonds typically come in ‘fancy’ colours (normally yellow or pink). As similar ‘fancy’ mined stones are extremely rare and expensive, synthetic diamonds provide a good option for consumers who want a coloured stone, but who don’t have a huge budget.

On the downside, white synthetic diamonds are extremely difficult to produce, and very few have found their way onto the market, making the synthetic option unsuitable for anyone who wants a classic white solitaire engagement ring. Also, since synthetic diamonds are produced by a relatively small group of companies, the available choice of sizes, colours and cuts is often less than ideal. Finally, many consumers simply view traditional diamonds as more romantic, created within the earth millions of years ago.

In this era of ethical consumerism, the moral credentials of synthetic diamonds have also come under scrutiny. In their favour, they are demonstrably not conflict diamonds. However, they are vulnerable to the same unethical cutting and polishing practices as their mined counterparts, and knowing that a diamond is synthetic is not in itself a guarantee of its ethical provenance – its entire life history needs to be accounted for. In environmental terms, synthesising diamond does waste energy, though relatively minor amounts, and not necessarily more than the mining processes by which diamonds have traditionally been extracted.

Increasing numbers of retailers now offer synthetic diamonds alongside their traditional stones. They are never likely to account for more than a small part of the market, but as long as retailers are open and transparent about what they are selling, the arrival of synthetic stones shouldn’t prove to be a big problem for the industry. Beyond all the hype and misinformation, it looks like they are here to stay.